Before you call anyone, try these six things
Sometimes the fix costs nothing and takes five minutes. Here's what to check before scheduling a service call, in order of how often each one turns out to be the actual problem.
1. Check the thermostat setting
Sounds obvious, but it's the most common "no cool" cause we see. Make sure it's set to COOL (not just ON or HEAT), the set temperature is below the current room temperature, and the display is actually powered on. If the screen is blank, check thermostat batteries (many run on AA batteries even in a hardwired system).
2. Check your circuit breakers
Your AC has at least one dedicated breaker, sometimes two (one for the air handler, one for the outdoor condenser). Check your electrical panel for any tripped breakers. A tripped breaker that immediately trips again after resetting indicates an electrical fault, don't keep resetting it, call a tech.
3. Check your air filter
A severely clogged filter restricts airflow enough to trigger a safety shutoff or freeze the evaporator coil (which then blows warm or no air until it thaws). Pull the filter and hold it to a light. If you can't see light through it, replace it and give the system 30 minutes to recover.
4. Check the outdoor unit
Walk outside and look at your condenser unit. Is it running (fan spinning, audible hum)? Is anything blocking airflow around it (overgrown bushes, fallen branches, a tarp, patio furniture stacked against it)? Outdoor units need at least 2 feet of clearance on all sides to function properly.
5. Check for ice on the refrigerant lines or indoor coil
If you see ice buildup anywhere on the system, turn the thermostat to OFF (not just adjust temperature, fully off) and set the fan to ON for 2-3 hours to let it thaw completely. Running an iced system continues damaging the compressor. Once thawed, try again; if it re-freezes, you have an underlying issue (low refrigerant, airflow restriction) that needs a tech.
6. Check your condensate drain and float switch
Many systems have a safety float switch in the condensate drain pan that shuts the system down if the drain is clogged and water is backing up (prevents water damage). If you have access to the drain pan (usually near the indoor air handler), check for standing water. If present, the drain line is likely clogged. This sometimes can be cleared with a wet/dry vacuum at the outdoor drain line termination point, but if you're not comfortable, this is a quick, inexpensive fix for a tech.
When these checks don't solve it
If you've gone through all six and you're still not getting cool air, you're likely dealing with something that needs a licensed tech: a failed capacitor, low refrigerant from a leak, a bad contactor, or a failing compressor. Don't keep cycling the system on and off trying different things; repeated attempts on an actual mechanical fault (especially electrical) can cause more damage.
What to tell the tech on the phone
Having answers to these questions when you call speeds up diagnosis: Is the outdoor unit running at all? Is air blowing from the vents (even if warm)? Any unusual sounds? When did you last change the filter? Any recent storms or power surges? This lets dispatch send the right tech with likely parts already on the truck.
The $80 you might save
All six checks above are free. If they resolve the issue, you've saved the $80 diagnostic fee entirely. If they don't, you've at least ruled out the easy stuff, and the diagnostic will move faster because you can describe exactly what you tried.
Still not cooling? Call (228) 265-8609. Answered 24/7, same-day dispatch across the Coast.